We are part of this universe; we are in this universe, but perhaps more important than both of those facts, is that the universe is in us.
Neil deGrasse Tyson
One
In the desert as the sky grows dark and
the silhouettes of mountains loom starkly
against the quickly fading light I stand.
I stand here with my camera focused
on the graceful curve of the western ridge
where dark clouds lifted just as the sun fell.
I stand here, my body blending into shadow -
with the other elements of the desert,
merging into a single black silhouette.
I stand as the night deepens, stars appear-
the Milky Way shows its bright cloudy face-
seeing it, from the inside looking out.
I stand with the mountain, by the river
with cactus and wildflowers, and other wild things-
among the vast and the small, invisible.
I had this sense of just being a part of the landscape in the dark here, in Big Bend. I can’t explain, it but it felt something like relief.
The drive from Marfa to the Barton Warnock Visitor Center at Big Bend was only a couple of hours. I stopped at the visitor center to pick up my camping permit and was surprised to see that I had a pretty good cell connection there. Then I found out it was a fifteen mile drive through the mountains to get to my site. I lost my connection after the first major climb. Then when I arrived at my campsite, I realized I was the only person at this particular campground. I was surprised, because it was beautiful. I was also a little spooked; but I was there - and it was a little late to try to find another spot; so I stayed.
A river access just down the hill from my campsite. I walked down there on the first night to see the river and stretch my legs. That’s when I learned how close I was to the Mexican border. I found out later that it was just across the river - which was narrow and shallow at this point. Something about being that close made me realize how weird the concept of borders is in a place like this, where the division is so (literally) fluid.
It was hot when I arrived in the afternoon, but overnight the temperatures dropped into the 40s. Flowers were blooming everywhere - the cactus blossoms were particularly beautiful and swarming with bees. With the temperature drop, I noticed in the morning that the bees were huddled together and not moving. At first, I wondered if the cold temperatures killed them; but when I returned later in the afternoon - they had flown away.
My first long hike was on a trail called the Fresno Divide Trail. I am struck by the etching in the rock on the mountainside here - it almost looks like a city carved in stone. The trail map I carried said that unusual landscape is caused by a mixture of volcanic activity, limestone upheaval and erosion from wind and rain.
I loved the leggy ocotillo plants all around the park with their bright red flowers reaching up into the air (that plant next to the trail in the picture). I was definitely here at a good time to see wildflowers of all kinds.
Yucca Plant against etched limestone
Some wildflowers and cactus blossoms I saw along the trails.
One of the only shady hikes I took in the park was on a trail called the Closed Canyon trail - where you hike between two walls of rock - the trail ends abruptly with a sign hanging from chains after a descent. When I reached the end, there were people picnicking there and a ten-year-old boy told me “you can go further” but I decided to live to hike another day.
On my way out of the park - I stopped to take a picture from above my campsite. It’s down there somewhere, below the curve in the road; alongside the river.
Couldn’t resist stopping here on my way out of the park, either. It’s a movie set. The Streets of Laredo was apparently partially filmed here. I loved the way the adobe building contrasted with the carved rock of the mountains behind it.
Stopped at the visitor center to make a reservation at Davis Mountains State Park, eat some breakfast and do a little routine maintenance on the van before driving back north. On my way to Davis Mountains, I had to stop at a border patrol checkpoint where they took a look inside the van to make sure I wasn’t bringing anybody back with me. They were very nice; but that was a new experience for me!
I would like to step out of my heart and go walking beneath the enormous sky.
Rainer Maria Rilke
Davis Mountains State Park sits about a mile above the Chihuahuan Desert. On my first hike I took the Skyline Trail. That white building off in the distance is a white adobe inn that’s part of the park.
An eastern ridge, just before sunrise. This park gets more rain than Big Bend and there are trees. They aren’t tall trees, but they’re a welcome sight on the trail when the sun is high and you need a break. I was only here for two nights, but I really loved it. The park staff and volunteers were really wonderful.
Nature’s delicate balance.
A little surprise at this park - there were two buildings with shaded viewing areas and multiple bird feeders. The birds were really active. I could have watched all day if I only had more time! Unfortunately, I had to leave on the morning of April 1 for El Paso where I would be parking my van and flying back home.
One final surprise on the way to El Paso - I stopped along the highway at a picnic area to get a little lunch and saw that there was a trailhead behind the picnic table pavilions. I thought it would be nice to stretch my legs mid-drive, so I walked up - and this was the view from the top of the trail. West Texas did not disappoint in any way.
I am so grateful I have the opportunity to make trips like this, and I am really grateful to you for being here!